![]() I've been fiddling with Nebulosity abit, to try and get it to stack the RAW images from my Nikon D750 as colour. Not too bad for a quick test on a half-moon night. The image to the right is a stack of 24x5 second unguided exposures of the trapezium in M42. ![]() ![]() I'm looking forward to being able to grab Jupiter with it in a month or so and Saturn and Mars later this year. I've not done any guiding yet (I need a way to mount the guide scope on the main scope - d'oh) but the camera works well with Nebulosity 4 and oaCapture. Until then I'd messed around with a hacked up Logitech webcam, which seemed to only be supported by the Photo Booth app. AstroGuider (Mac OS X, payware, free trial)Ī few weeks ago I bought a ZWO ASI120MC-S astro camera, as that was on sale and listed by Nebulosity as supported by OSX.Nebulosity (Mac OS X, payware, free trial).Processing and stacking DSLR files and post-processing video stacks: AstroDSLR (Mac OS X, payware, free trial).AutoStakkert! (Windows + Wine, free for non-commercial use, donationware).Handbrake (Mac OS X, free, open source).AstroImager (Mac OS X, payware, free trial).You can turn them into normal double click applications using a utility called WineSkin Winery. Some are Windows software, but run OK on Mac OS X. I thought I'd document what I use, in the hope that I can save others who want to use their Macs some searching. I don't know if that means it's all fairly new or whether my Google skills failed me over the past years :-) Software However, I've recently started finding quite a bit of Mac OS based astrophotography software. However, that's time consuming and rather fiddly and limited to stacking static exposures. When I first got the Mac, I had a lot of trouble getting Wine to run reliably and eventually ended up doing my alignment and processing manually in The Gimp. I used to run the freeware ones in Wine on Ubuntu with varying levels of success. In the mean time, I've started doing a bit more astrophotography and of course the change of operating system has affected the tools I use to obtain and process photos.Īmateur astronomers have traditionally mostly used Windows, so there are a lot of Windows tools, both freeware and payware, to help. If camera is unable to draw sufficient power then I think you can get strange patterns in the lights which will not calibrate out.It's been a good three years now since I swapped my HP laptop for a Macbook Pro. Is this internal battery or a converter? I had a problem a year or two back which I eventually tracked back to low input voltage to my camera. Have a look at the early part of this video tutorial:Īnother thing you might look at is the power supply to your camera. Also try experimenting with the Cosmetic Correction options in 2) Calibrate as this may help. If this is not the case then I would carefully review your process for capturing and stacking your calibration frames. Have you tried examining your individual subs using a hard stretch with viewer in a) linear, and b) l-calibrated mode? When switching to the l-calibrated mode, much of the noise and other unwanted artifacts in your linear subs should be removed. I take it that we are looking at a stacked image in your screen-shot and not a single frame? The nebula signal looks pretty weak to me so I assume you are not integrating that many frames and/or they are of short duration?
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